On a mid-week afternoon, with pre-booked table waiting, my friend and I sauntered towards Wilton Way which was bathed in an ethereal hue from the hazy sunlight.  It provided a glorious spotlight which any new restaurant could but hope for when laying a proverbial red carpet for potential repeat customers testing their wares.  However what I must confirm for any of my blog posts on restaurants or any other epicurean delight, my pen to paper comes with but one condition: that they are GOOD.  This bodes rather well then perhaps for Mayfields as it is clear the dinner was favourable.  I felt it important though to clarify the necessity to share good feedback, versus the majority who like to poise judgement with the sharpness of their tongues, all too busy considering witty ways to revolt the reader on their meal than consider details of the food itself.

Mayfields Wilston Way

No, no, that is not why I write.  I consider myself the ‘Anti’ food critic, here to provide wonderful morsels of words from the plates I have been privileged to consume, which hopefully leads for you to try them for yourself.  That’s the wonderful thing about sharing, you do not necessarily have to be there but through plate to mouth to word can dine at the same table eventually.  And so my chef friend Dinu, with his palate for combining flavours and textures and I, with my equally curious mind, entered into the Borough Wine empire’s new abode Mayfield on Wilton Way, opposite one of their existing wine shops.  Borough Wine is something of a mystery to me as I always meant to test out their L’Entrepôt restaurant further down Dalston Lane (it is on the List).  Additionally, a Borough Wine shop opened on Stoke Newington Church Street and seems to be doing rather well with their refillable bottles of wine and various other bottles of pleasure so it is clearly an entrepreneurial success.

Menu Du Soir

I was first tempted to Mayfields by a well-placed tweet of their menu, simple words breaking down key components in their dishes, a simplicity I respect on a menu (your curiosity then leads you to interrogate the poor waiter with questions on ingredients.  Which we did.  Frequently).  By recommendation of the very patient waiter, 2-3 plates per person should sate the appetite so before committing to our choices, an aperitif was swallowed (the ever popular drink of the moment Aperol Spritz & a Campari and Soda), followed by a choice of an Italian white wine from Tuscany, Casamatta (‘crazy house’) 2011 by producer Bibi Graetz.  Due to its clean taste with elements of citrus fruit and an acidity that did not override your senses, it was a welcome partner for the feast we were yet to consume.


Plates were brought out as and when they were ready, which is really not cumbersome at all, rather liberating in fact as there is no rigidity to conform to course sittings.  So we were served first with the Mozzarella & Bottarga, a perfectly salted piece of al dente cheese that had such a wonderful texture I kept tearing pieces off when I swore each one was my last.  The bottarga element of smoked grey mullet roe, although not particularly influential, did penetrate delicately.  The Scallop, Grapefruit Granita & Radish dish was a wonderful example of combining flavour and texture, as the almost paper thin slices of red and white radish, along with slivers of carrot, tender scallops and refreshing granita provided a very moreish sensation on the tongue.  It was like I was consuming the seafood at its freshest, pulled from the bed of crushed ice at the fishmongers and placed straight onto my fork.  A couple of bites whisked this plate away, to be proceeded by the intriguing yet murkier world of Smoked Eel Broth, Slow Egg & White Asparagus.  A perfectly poached egg sat in a simple broth, which when broken into and swirled, added an excellent richness that works exquisitely with the delicious pieces of eel and white asparagus (very in-keeping with season too by using this light-deprived vegetable).

Mozzarella, Smoked Eel & Scallop

The next plate was the clear leader on our table, particularly for my chef friend who was quite enamoured with it, emitting noises of contentment with every new mouthful.  It is true though, the Ricotta, Cannellini, Yellow Beans & Anchovy was extraordinary quartet of key ingredients; soft clouds of milky cheese, nutty white beans and strips of summery pods with elements of mint and basil leaves, drizzles of olive oil and cracked black pepper that married together perfectly.  The anchovy part was merely a drop of essence as it did not overshadow anything thankfully, as we begrudgingly yet politely insisted we should each take the last forkful (I conceded gracefully).  Black Bream , Pil Pil, Lemon & Courgette were following a hard act however were an excellent support dish.  The fish was steamed (keeping its firm texture) and laid next to fine folds of courgette and lemon, with a scattering of basil leaves and a duo of sauces; Pil Pil (in this case a mayonnaise, combining the stock from grey mullet to whip up a highly flavoursome sauce) and mustard.  Again, another considered approach in texture and flavour, with the crunch of a thicker piece of courgette and slivers of its thinner brothers sat very well with the meaty fish and sauces.

Cannellini & RicottaBlack Bream

It would seem that dessert was imperative; with only two choices (and same amount of dinner guests) we tasted the Chocolate Mousse, Yogurt & Rye and Walnut Praline Ice Cream.  Whilst the gelato was inviting, it was never to be as memorable as the mousse.  A powerful triad, this time of a Spanish 70% cocoa mousse, the tartness of plain yoghurt and astounding crunch from crumbs of toasted rye, it was a far superior dessert to its poor frozen partner.  Greed as well as a need for more salty flavours led us to order one more plate from the menu, this time a meatier one, Salami Toscano, Toast & Tomato.  Much like a Pan de Tomate, the fried bread was perfectly crisp all over, to be drenched in tomato juice rubbed onto its side and draped with slices of incredible garlic infused Toscano, pieces of yellow cherry tomatoes and a few shredded basil leaves.  It was a glorious last plate to our riveted tongues and bellies, leading us to ponder most fondly on the dishes we had rapturously enjoyed.

DessertSalami Toscano

As I had expected and came to find out, this small restaurant based in a residential utopia has a heightened sense of food combining that is a refreshing addition to the restaurant circuit.  With table bread provided by the super E5 Bakehouse (a superior sourdough to many others, I must say) and a wine empire’s worth of produce, as well as a daily rotating menu I expect to be continually astounded and educated by further visits to this wonderful place.  And I look forward to sharing the plates and tables with you now too.